The Five Lands



June 29, 2013: Our friend Stefanie suggested we visit Cinque Terre when we were in Italy. It looked interesting, so we decided to check it out.

Cinque Terre means five lands. It’s a string of five small, colourful villages perched along a remote stretch of rugged coastline an hour or two south of Genoa. The area is noted for fishing and wine making, with terraced vineyards climbing the steep hillsides that make up the region. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was designated as a national park in 1999 (Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre).

Getting there was part of the adventure. As we once again tried to avoid driving on the toll superhighways, our GPS lady sent us on a wild route along super twisty, narrow secondary country roads seemingly in the middle of nowhere, which Chris took great pleasure in driving, much to the displeasure of my tummy. At one point, she even tried to send us up a driveway on private property, but luckily a nearby signpost got us headed in the right direction.

It’s recommended that you park outside of the region in La Spezia and take the train in because parking is at a premium. In fact, you can only drive into one of the villages; the largest, Monterosso al Mare. Of course, we didn’t learn about this until after our visit and we didn’t even know you could get there by train until we had already arrived. But luck was on our side and we managed to snag one of the few remaining spots in the town’s parkade.

Initially, we decided that visiting two of the towns would be enough for us. The towns are connected by a scenic walking trail that hugs the coast and meanders through vineyards and around bays, or you can hop on any of the regional trains or ferries that run between them, as most visitors do.

We chose to walk, since it was such a beautiful sunny day. It was suggested to allow one and a half hours from Monterosso to the next town south, Vernazza. The trail is narrow with lot of ups and downs; sometimes there are stone stairs, but mostly bare dirt with lots of exposed tree roots. Nearly everyone was wearing proper hiking boots and some even carried walking sticks. Chris opted for flip flops instead.

The steep, terraced hillsides have been used to grow grapes, olives and lemons for centuries. When the grapes are harvested, they are carted down to the towns along a cog-wheel single track rail system. Sadly, we heard that the terrace walls are not being properly maintained and erosion is taking its toll in some areas.

Although there were a lot of tourists in the towns, the trail itself wasn’t too crowded except where everyone stopped to take pictures at the most scenic of places. The views were spectacular and well worth the effort. When Vernazza’s picturesque harbour under the shadow of Doria Castle came into view, we were ecstatic, anticipating the cold bevvies that awaited us.

Still an active fishing village, Vernazza itself dates to the 11th century. The main street and Piazza Marconi were flush with camera toting tourists eating gelato, munching on fried seafood from large paper cones and buying souveneirs, but it was easy to get away from the crowds in the narrow side alleys and up the steep steps at Doria Castle. Not many people bothered to make that climb.

Vernazza was charming but it wasn’t the image imprinted in our heads. So we decided to hop on the train and go to the furthest of the five towns, Riomaggiore, walk the popular Via dell’Amore (Street of Love), a cliff hugging trail that connects it to neighbouring Manarola, and then take the ferry back to where we started.

Apparently, the terrace walls aren’t the only thing in disrepair. The Via dell’Amore was closed due to damage from a storm. So our new plan to hit four of the five towns was quickly revised again. After picking up a bottle of local Vino Rosso recommended to us by a wine merchant, we took the ferry back to Monterosso, getting to see each of the five towns in turn from a water perspective. As it turns out, Manarola was the one we had been holding in our mind’s eye.

Picturesque? Absolutely. Between us, we took more than 250 photos today, not including all the ones we deleted. And if the sun had stayed with us, we probably would have taken many, many more.

Tomorrow’s destination: Portofino

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5 responses to “The Five Lands

  1. Oh Sandra, I’m sooooooo jealous. Stuart and I love Cinque Terre. We took the ferry from La Spezia and started our trek in Riomaggiore. Took the trail to Manarolo and then once in Manarola took the ferry from there (Missing Corniglia) to Vernazza. From Vernazza we hiked to Monterosso. It was spectacular!!! I loved it.

    We had the best lunch of our lives in Monterosso. I still can taste it, pasta with fresh seafood. Came in the largest bowl I’ve ever seen and we just dug in and ate with fresh bread and salad with fresh basil, olive oil and balsamic vineager. The taste of the sauce was sooooo good. It was the tinyest hole in the wall just up from the beach area. Sooo good.

    My other fav spot was Riomaggiore. I agree, completely picturesque. Sad you didn’t get to Via Del’Amore, but I envy you being there right now.

    I’m so jealous you are going to Portofino. That is next on my list to see. We managed a 1/2 day in Sorrento on the way to visit Pompeii. Highly recommend a visit to Pompeii if you can get there. Didn’t manage any time in Naples but took the ferry from there over to Capri. Such a beautiful place, one that I would go back to. Most of our time in Italy, has been spent in Tuscany, but after two trips there, I’d now spend my time on the Coast.

    You two are having the time of your lives. Love reading the blog and seeing the pictures. Can’t wait to see your pics of Portofino. Have a glass of vino for us! Enjoy……
    Ciao, Karen and Stuart

    • Thanks Karen! Sadly, I’m just catching up the blog now that I’m back in the Philippines on board MOKEN. This was nearly three weeks ago. It’s been 20 years since my last trip to Italy and we loved the coast too. Maybe that’s because we are all such water people. Food was awesome…there’s an upcoming blog post on that topic. Stay tuned. Great suggestions for other places to see next time. Chris will have to go back to Sesto for more training soon and I’m hoping to tag along again!!! Say hi to Stuart. Ciao Bella!

      • Oh you jet setter you! Back and forth across the world! Gee, what a hardship to go back to Italy for training! LOL I look forward to reading the rest and see where else you went. Maybe one day you’ll position the boat in say……Monaco or Villefranche????? I’m thinking that would be a nice 2nd home!

        Talk soon,
        Karen

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